Discovering Madeira's Levadas: A Guide to Walking Safely
Updated: Oct 6
Levadas You Can Do Independently
These walks are well-marked and manageable without specialist knowledge. They are popular enough that you will rarely be alone on the path.
Levada dos Balcões (PR11)
This is the best starting point for first-timers. It is a 3 km out-and-back walk along the Levada da Serra do Faial, taking about 90 minutes. The path is flat and clear, ending at a viewpoint with a sweeping panorama of the central peaks. There are no tunnels and minimal exposure, making it suitable for most fitness levels. Currently, it is free to walk with no permit required.
Levada das 25 Fontes (PR6)
One of the most popular walks on the island, and easy to see why. You follow the levada through laurel forest to a basin with 25 natural springs and the Risco waterfall nearby. The path is well-maintained and clearly signed. You need to book a time-slot permit in advance (around €4.50 per person as of 2026) through the Madeira SIMplifica system. A guide is not required, but planning ahead is essential.
Levada do Rei (PR18)
This gentle, mostly flat walk takes you through a forest of giant tree heathers in São Jorge. It is around 10 km return, rated moderate, and takes about 3.5 to 4 hours. There is one short unlit tunnel, so a headlamp or phone torch is essential. While it does not require specialist guidance, do not skip the torch. A permit is required via SIMplifica.
Levada do Calderão Verde (PR9)
This walk gets more interesting. It features four tunnels, a waterfall at the end, and genuinely dramatic scenery. It is 17 km return and rated moderate by the official trails body. The tunnels are long enough that a headlamp is necessary. There are sections with a drop on one side and no railing, which can be uncomfortable for those sensitive to heights. It is doable independently, but go early, be prepared, and avoid wet weather without experience. A permit is required, and the endpoint area beyond the official finish is closed due to rockfall risk at the time of writing.
Levada Nova (Calheta area)
This quieter, often overlooked walk on the south-west coast is mostly flat, scenic, and free from the crowds of the north-coast routes. You pass behind a waterfall and through a rocky section carved into the cliff face. It is not classified as a PR trail, so currently, no permit is required. This is a solid choice if you want a levada experience without the logistics.
Levadas Where a Guide Is Strongly Recommended
Levada do Calderão do Inferno (PR9.1)
This is the extension of the Calderão Verde route, and the difficulty increases significantly. Rated hard, it spans eighteen kilometres with around 300 m of cumulative elevation. It features multiple tunnels and genuinely exposed sections with drops on one side and no safety barrier. The route leads into wild, remote terrain where the path is not always obvious, and clouds can close in quickly. Most experienced walkers say this is the one Madeira walk they would not attempt alone without local knowledge. A guide familiar with the terrain and changing weather is worth every penny here.
PR1: Vereda do Areeiro (Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo)
Technically a vereda rather than a levada, this walk is worth including because it is the most asked-about on the island. The ridge traverse from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo is spectacular and well-marked, but it is exposed in a way that no amount of signage can fully prepare you for. The narrow paths have vertical drops on either side, with no barrier for much of the route. At 1,800 m altitude, cloud and temperature can change rapidly. Reopened in April 2026 after wildfire damage, it now has a new €10.50 fee. Experienced mountain walkers can do it independently, but if you are unsure whether you count as experienced, a guide will remove the doubt. This is not a walk to find out.
Levada do Furado (PR10)
This lovely 11 km forest walk was closed as of early 2026 due to landslide damage. When it reopens, it will involve narrow sections above drops and require some navigational attention where the path becomes less clear. It is not technically demanding, but it is the kind of route where things can go wrong if people are not paying attention. A guide can be particularly helpful on the longer point-to-point version. Always check the current status before planning.
Levada Fajã do Rodrigues (PR16)
Currently closed for maintenance, this levada includes a tunnel that takes 20 to 25 minutes to walk through in near-total darkness. The footing inside is uneven, and water drips from the ceiling throughout. This is the type of levada where a headlamp is essential, but so is the confidence to walk a long, wet, dark tunnel without losing your bearings. A guide is not strictly required, but first-timers often find it more stressful than expected.
Practical Tips for Walking Madeira's Levadas
Always Bring a Headlamp
Every levada with a tunnel will be dark enough to need one. A phone torch runs out of battery, so carry a proper headlamp with fresh batteries.
Book Permits in Advance
From 2026, all classified PR trails in Madeira require a time-slot reservation via the SIMplifica system, at around €4.50 per person. PR1 costs €10.50. Residents of Madeira are exempt. Do not leave this to the morning of your planned walk.
Check Trail Status the Day Before
Madeira’s weather is changeable, and trails close after storms, rockfalls, and maintenance work. The official status map at visitmadeira.com is updated regularly. Do not rely on last year’s blog post.
Wear Proper Footwear
Trainers are fine for Balcões. For anything rated moderate or above, proper hiking boots with grip are essential. Basalt rock is slippery when wet, and it is often wet.
Best Months to Walk
May, June, September, and early October offer the best combination of stable weather, long daylight, and manageable crowds. Winter is workable on lower levadas but unpredictable above 1,000 m.
Going Early Matters
On popular routes like PR9 and PR6, starting at 7 or 8 am means fewer people on narrow paths and better light for photographs.
FAQ
Can You Do Levadas Without a Guide?
Yes, most of them. The majority of Madeira’s classified levada walks are well-marked and accessible to any reasonably fit walker with the right footwear and a headlamp. The exceptions are the walks with long unlit tunnels combined with exposed drops or routes that venture into genuinely remote terrain where the consequences of a wrong turn are serious.
Are Levadas Dangerous?
The risk on most levadas is manageable rather than serious, provided you wear appropriate footwear, carry a torch for tunnels, and avoid walking in bad weather. The danger people often underestimate is the edge. Many levada paths have a drop on one side, and some have no railing. It is not extreme, but it is not a pavement either. If you are seriously affected by heights, pick your route carefully and consider a guide.
Which Is the Best Levada for Beginners?
Levada dos Balcões (PR11) is the standard recommendation, and it earns it. It is short, flat, genuinely beautiful, and free to walk. Levada do Rei (PR18) is a step up in terms of distance and drama, making it a good second walk once you know what to expect from Madeira’s paths.
Do Levadas in Madeira Require Permits?
From 2026, yes. All official PR trails now require a paid reservation through the Madeira government’s SIMplifica booking system. The fee is €4.50 per person for most trails and €10.50 for PR1. You book a time slot in advance. Some non-classified levadas remain free, but these are not the main PR routes.
When Are Levadas Closed?
Trails close after heavy rain, storms, rockfalls, and for maintenance. PR10 (Levada do Furado) has been closed since a January 2026 landslide. PR7 and PR16 are also closed at the time of writing. Always check the current status on the official Visit Madeira status map before you go.
Planning a Madeira Trip?
I have been planning travel for forty years, and Madeira sits near the top of the list for independent-minded travellers who want something more than a beach. It rewards those who do a bit of research before they arrive.
If you are putting together a trip and want help working out what fits your group, your pace, and your interests, get in touch. That is exactly what I am here for.
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