What Is Milan Like for First-Time Visitors?
Milan is an easy, short flight from the UK and a city that rewards an evening out more than a checklist. Expect fast drivers, tiny espressos, serious food and very few parking spaces.
I have been to Milan a couple of times on work projects. It was a long time ago, so I will not pretend to know what has changed. What I do remember clearly is the people, the food and a handful of moments that still make me smile.
Is Milan easy to get to from the UK?
Yes. The flight is straightforward and takes a couple of hours.
I flew from Newcastle and the journey was simple. I cannot remember whether we changed somewhere, but either way it was easy enough to get there and I never felt it was a hassle.
That makes Milan a good choice for a long weekend. You do not lose a day to travelling.
Where should I stay in Milan?
Stay close to the Duomo. You can walk to almost everything from there.
My work colleague and I stayed on a street just around the corner from the Duomo. The hotel was very pink and very neon. When you came down for breakfast in the morning it stung your eyes a bit. The rooms were fine, but the breakfast room was awful.
My advice is to check the photos before you book. The location was excellent, though, and that matters more than the colour scheme.
What is it like walking around Milan?
Busy, and the drivers are fearless. You can cross the road, but do it with confidence.
The first thing that surprised me was the traffic. There were cars everywhere, and they did not seem to stop very often. They were not nose to tail, and there was plenty of room to move.
If you wait for a gap, step onto the crossing and start walking, the cars do stop. You are taking your life in your hands a little bit, but it works.
There are also far too many cars for the number of parking spaces. People park anywhere, up on grass verges and at angles by the side of the road. Legal or illegal, anywhere you could get a car in seemed fair game.
I would not take a car to Milan. I have not been back recently, so check whether a congestion zone applies now.
What should I eat and drink in Milan?
Start the day with an espresso, book a risotto restaurant and be curious about the menu.
The office espresso machine
The company we worked with had offices named after different liquorice allsorts, each with a little picture on the door. Everyone queued at a vending machine for an espresso first thing in the morning.
I was expecting a proper cup with a little coffee in the bottom. What I got was a teeny weeny plastic vending cup. It was fantastic, though. You do not get the same espresso over here.
The risotto house
One night our hosts took us to a little risotto place no bigger than the room I record in. It had five or six tables, and ours were pushed together into one long banqueting table.
You could have anything you liked, as long as it was risotto. There is black rice, red rice and white rice, and they are not dyed. They are bred that way. A big picture on the wall was made entirely from grains of rice in different colours.
We started with a plate of five different risottos as a taster. Then we scored them, and whichever one we scored highest, we got a full plate of. A different wine came with the tasting plate, the main course and the dessert.
At eight o'clock they closed the doors and the bar went across, so you had to arrive by half past seven or a quarter to eight. There was music and dancing. AC Milan, or the other one, had a match nearby that night. I think the bar was partly there to keep us in.
Right at the end came a very special golden, sweet wine made from the residue inside a wine barrel. It was kept for the VIP customers. It was absolutely beautiful.
The wine was spectacular all night. I have a theory that the Italians keep their best wine for themselves and send us the rest. Italian wine in the UK is not the same as Italian wine in Italy. Prove me wrong in the comments.
Italo Cinese
After long days, finishing around eight in the evening, we sometimes could not decide what to eat. Someone told us about an Italo Cinese restaurant. It is half Italian food and half Chinese food, and you can order from either side, or have a Chinese style pizza.
I do not know if the places still exist. If you find one, tell me about it in the comments.
A proper Italian dinner
Most evenings the highlight of the day was a restaurant. One night it was just four of us English guys, because the Italian colleagues were heading home to avoid trouble with their wives.
I had chicken Valdostana, one of my favourite Italian dishes. The chicken breast was cooked to perfection with a little moisture left in it, and the tomato sauce was amazing. I must have it again soon.
What does the menu mean when it just says meat?
One of our group could translate everything on the menu. There was chicken, there was beef, and then there was an entry that simply said meat. We wondered if it was horse or donkey.
The waiter would not tell us when we asked, so we took that as a yes. I checked afterwards and was told that both horse and donkey meat are eaten in Italy and appear on menus in Milan. If you are squeamish, perhaps do not ask what the meat is.
What can I do in Milan?
Walk around the Duomo, shop in the arcades and book La Scala well ahead.
The big square in front of the Duomo has La Scala, the opera house, on the other side. We really wanted to see an opera there. We were told tickets go on sale about six months in advance, so we missed out.
Next time I will arrange the opera tickets as part of the trip. That is something I can build into a package for you too.
I also did some shopping in the arcades that run alongside and beyond the Duomo. They are worth a wander even if you buy nothing.
Frequently asked questions
Is Milan good for a long weekend?
Yes. The flight is a couple of hours and I found it straightforward. You can walk around the Duomo area easily and have plenty of good meals.
Should I hire a car in Milan?
I would not. There are too many cars and not enough parking when I was there. Check whether a congestion zone now applies if you are thinking about it.
Do I need to book La Scala in advance?
Yes. I was told tickets sell about six months ahead, and we missed out because we left it late.
Is the food in Milan different from Italian food in the UK?
Very. Risotto in Milan comes in many varieties and rice colours, and the espresso and the wine tasted better to me than at home.
Do people really eat horse in Milan?
Yes. Horse and donkey meat are eaten in Italy and appear on menus in Milan. A dish listed only as meat may be one of them.
Where should I stay in Milan?
Close to the Duomo, so you can walk to most places. Look carefully at the hotel photos before you book.
Thinking about planning a trip to Milan?
I would love to help you plan it, from where to stay to a table at the right restaurant. I will also get you opera tickets sorted early.
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